European scientists uncover new plant-based anti-inflammatory and anti-aging ingredients for sustainable cosmetics 

Gent, Belgium, 16 October 2025 – In the landmark collaborative project InnCoCells, scientists at the VIB-UGent Center for Plant Systems Biology, together with 16 partners from 11 European countries, have discovered new plant-based ingredients with proven anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects for the development of next-generation skincare products. This research was coordinated by VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland and represents the most comprehensive scientific exploration of plant-based cosmetic ingredients ever conducted. 

A new model for sustainable ingredient discovery 

The EU-funded InnCoCells project signals a shift in how cosmetic ingredients are discovered, validated, and developed. Earlier work often centered on single isolated plant compounds, whereas InnCoCells has taken a broad, systematic screening approach. More than 100 plant extracts have been screened for effects on 20 skin-related biomarkers related to inflammation and aging, revealing ~25 extracts suitable for development as skincare product ingredients. ​ 

Importantly, these extracts can be derived from responsibly grown plants in greenhouses, plant cell and tissue cultures in bioreactors, or agricultural side-streams that would otherwise be discarded, making them not only effective but also environmentally sustainable. The sustainability and commercial potential of all production platforms and ingredients were validated by life cycle assessment and techno-economic analysis. 

Breakthrough plant cell extracts address inflammation and aging  

Among the most exciting discoveries are extracts from cell cultures of Cochlearia danica (Danish scurvygrass), Capsicum chinense (a tropical pepper), and hairy roots of Ocimum basilicum (basil).

Cell cultures of C. danica, a small herb that grows on Northern European coastlines, ranked highest in our studies for producing multiple bioactive compounds with scientifically proven efficacy. This versatile extract demonstrated strong anti-inflammatory and anti-aging activities in vitro, as well as potent antimicrobial effects exceeding those of many single-compound ingredients currently on the market. 

Extracts of C. chinense cell cultures also showed promising antimicrobial activity against harmful skin bacteria, even inhibiting the pathogenic hospital bacterium Staphylococcus aureus MRSA. Furthermore, the extract showed strong anti-aging activity, protecting skin cells from stress. But unlike popular anti-aging ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, there was no sign of skin irritation. ​ 

Basil hairy root extracts showed unique anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase activities but did not affect elastase, indicating the potential to counter the signs of skin aging without affecting hydration. 

“These findings highlight how nature and science can come together to create the next generation of cosmetic ingredients,” says InnCoCells coordinator, Dr. Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey from VTT. “For the first time, we are building a pipeline of ingredients that combine scientifically proven skin benefits with responsible, scalable production. This direction reflects what consumers and the beauty industry are actively seeking, while also aligning with the wider goals of the European bioeconomy.” 

These discoveries feed directly into the growing demand for commercial applications. The InnCoCells partners are already exploring business models to bring these ingredients closer to the market. The aim is not only to demonstrate efficacy but also to find the right partners to produce these ingredients for the market so that brands can integrate them into their product formulations. 

VIB contribution: from fundamental plant science to application 

“Collaborating with other European research institutes, universities, SMEs and companies during the InnCoCells project provided an exciting opportunity for my research group to translate our fundamental knowledge on plant metabolism into real-life applications.” says Prof. Alain Goossens from the VIB-UGent Center for Plant Systems Biology, one of the InnCoCells work package leaders. “We were actively involved in the screening for suitable plant species and the subsequent empowerment of their metabolic capacities, which formed the cornerstone of the InnCoCells pipeline. It was thrilling to witness how our initial findings ultimately led to the successful production of ingredient candidates for skincare products.” 

About the research 

InnCoCells was a 4.5-year research and innovation project funded by the European Union’s Horizon 2020 program with a total budget of €7.9 million. Coordinated by VTT, the project’s objective was to establish new, sustainable production systems for plant-derived cosmetic ingredients with scientifically validated biological activity and efficacy. To achieve this, InnCoCells combined advanced plant science, biotechnology, and cultivation methods — including greenhouse, aeroponic, and plant cell culture technologies — with circular approaches such as the upcycling of agricultural side-streams. The project involved 17 partners from 11 European countries, ranging from universities and research institutes to SMEs, a large company, and sectoral organizations. Together, the consortium worked to ensure that discoveries could move efficiently from laboratory testing into real-world cosmetic applications. 

For more information: 

Sooike Stoops ​ 

VIB press 

+32 474 28 92 52 

Alain Goossens, Prof. Dr. 

InnCoCells WP leader 

Principal Investigator VIB-UGent Center for Plant Systems Biology 

alain.goossens@psb.vib-ugent.be 

+32477 81 97 18 

Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey, PhD 

InnCoCells Coordinator 

Senior Advisor, VTT 

kirsi-marja.oksman@vtt.fi 

+35 840 55 22 082